Parmigiano Reggiano has a history spanning millennia, but even today, it is still produced in the same way as it was originally: with few ingredients, all 100% natural, and no additives.
Although some believe that the origin of this cheese dates back approximately 2000 years to the Etruscans, the first written records come from the Middle Ages, when Cistercian and Benedictine monks, thanks to the abundance of watercourses and large pastures on their lands, sought the perfect recipe to produce a simple cheese that would last a long time.
And so, thanks to the salt from Salsomaggiore and the milk from numerous cows in the "grance" (large farm estates), the monks invented what they called "formadio," a hard, aged cheese weighing approximately 6 kg made only from cow's milk. The first records of the commercialization of what would later be called Parmigiano Reggiano come from a notarial deed from 1254 drawn up in Genoa, where the term "Caseus Parmensins," or "Cheese from Parma," appears.
History of Parmigiano Reggiano: the first expansion
The fame of this cheese spread quickly, and already in the first years after its invention, it was also consumed in Romagna, Piedmont, Tuscany, and some Mediterranean maritime centers.
Around the 15th century, a period of great economic development in Emilia, the cheese wheels grew larger (approximately 18 kg), and production also began in Modena. Commercialization continued, and at the same time, exports to the European area (Germany, Flanders, France, and Spain) began. During these years, producers realized that the cheese produced between May and September was of higher quality. It was therefore nicknamed "maggengo."
The 16th century saw significant development of dairies and cheesemaking facilities, which began to consolidate in a single location. But with the spread of Parmigiano Reggiano's popularity, imitations also began to appear. It was for this reason that on August 7, 1612, the Duke of Parma formalized the designation of origin, defining the places where the cheese had to be produced.
Origin of Parmigiano Reggiano: from 1700 to today
In the 18th century, several wars broke out in the Duchies of Parma and Modena, making Parmigiano Reggiano production difficult. Later, with the arrival of Napoleon at the beginning of the 19th century, large ecclesiastical holdings and lands were transferred to the bourgeoisie. During this period, dairies adopted their characteristic octagonal shape and increased their production, remaining active for 120 to 180 days a year, the same number of days cows had access to fresh grass.
Closer to the present day, specifically in the early 20th century, some innovations were introduced for the first time in the production of the King of cheeses, such as the use of whey starter and steam heating.
On July 27, 1934, for the first time, representatives of dairies from Parma, Reggio, Modena, and Mantua (right bank of the Po River) agreed on the need to approve a mark of origin for their cheese.
However, due to the wars, it was not until 1951 that the Stresa conference on cheese designations was held. And in 1954, finally, the law was passed. This date marks the transformation of the original Consortium into the current Consorzio di Tutela, the Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Consortium.
This novelty was followed in 1992 by the drafting of EEC Regulation 2081/1992 on Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs) (later integrated by EEC Regulation 510/2006). In 1996, Parmigiano Reggiano was officially recognized as a PDO at the European level.
